Water Part I

          There is no life without water so water, especially safe drinking water, should be at the top of everyone's list of prepper items. I purposely live with access to over a dozen different natural water sources within a day's hike (creeks, river, etc) and have the means to make it safe. However, I have noticed what I consider a very bad trend which is that folks tend to read up on wilderness survival and then buy a very inexpensive water filter designed for just that - short term wilderness survival. An example of this is the "Life Straw". It may be great in an emergency for a weekend backpacker but you would have to have a closet full of them as a prepper.

          Just as bad is that most "prepper sites" recommend water filter systems that are very expensive and economically out of reach or impractical for most folks. Not only that but most of these systems are not mobile friendly. An example of this is the "Berkeley" water filter system. This may be great if you have plenty of money to spend, and are bugging in, and have an ample supply of water on hand; but, otherwise you are screwed.

          The best solution is a system that combines the low price and portability of the Life Straw with the high volume of output of a Berkeley. I have and regularly use such a system and highly recommend it. It is the Sawyer Mini Water Filtration System. It can be used as a straw to drink directly from any source (e.g. a stream, water puddle, etc). It is sold with a straw as an extension to reach inside canteens and bottles. It is also sold with a pouch that you can screw it onto and use as a canteen or you can use a bottle to carry as a canteen - it fits most of the screw top bottles that water and soda are sold in. It can be adapted to fit most "Camelback" style backpack water bags or to any larger group sized bag, for using gravity if desired, to slowly fill any receptacle.

          When it comes to volume the Sawyer could last a lifetime for a single person as it has filter life of 100,000 gallons of water. The Life straw only filters 1,000 liters (about 264 gallons). The Berkeley system filter is rated at 3,000 gallons. Easy enough to see the difference! When it comes to safe water the Life Straw only filters down to .2 micron while the Sawyer filters down to .1 micron. When it comes to price I bought my Sawyer mini from Amazon for less than $20 USD. The Life Straw costs about $18 USD and the Berkeley well over $200 USD.

          The Sawyer Mini System is sold as a kit: Sawyer MINI Water Filter, 16 oz Reusable Squeeze Pouch, 7" Drinking Straw, Cleaning Plunger (Syringe), Cleaning and Maintenance Instructions

Stats:

Weight: Kit is 4 ounces, filter alone is 2 ounces

Protection: .1 micron filter removes 7 log (99.99999%) of all bacteria (like salmonella, cholera and E. coli) and 6 log (99.9999%) of all protozoa (like giardia and cryptosporidium).

USE: It takes about 45 seconds to filter 1 liter of water through the Sawyer Mini.

Lifetime Warranty      

          Why have a system you cannot carry on you or one that will not last. Do not just survive - surthrive!

Preppers and Tradecraft

Since part of being a prepper means being able to act clandestinely here is a little bit of advise from a former CIA Director. I will be postiong more tradecraft specific stuff soon (e.g. commo, etc).

SOME ELEMENTS OF INTELLIGENCE WORK
    - Allen Dulles
The greatest weapon a man or woman can bring to this type of work in which we are engaged is his or her hard common sense. The following notes aim at being a little common sense and applied form. Simple common sense crystallized by a certain amount of experience into a number of rules and suggestions.
1. There are many virtues to be striven after in the job. The greatest of them all is security. All else must be subordinated to that.
2. Security consists not only in avoiding big risks. It consists in carrying out daily tasks with painstaking remembrance of the tiny things that security demands. The little things are in many ways more important than the big ones. It is they which oftenest give the game away. it is consistent care in them, which form the habit and characteristic of security mindedness.
3. In any case, the man or woman who does not indulge in the daily security routine, boring and useless though it may sometimes appear, will be found lacking in the proper instinctive reaction when dealing with the bigger stuff.
4. No matter how brilliantly given an individual, no matter how great his good will, if he is lacking in security, he will eventually prove more of a liability than asset.
5. Even though you feel the curious outsider has probably a good idea that you are not what you purport to be, never admit it. Keep on playing the other part. It's amazing how often people will be led to think they were mistaken. Or at least that you are our 'in the other stuff' only in a very mild way. And anyhow, a person is quite free to think what he likes. The important thing is that neither by admission or implication do you let him know.
6. Security, of course, does not mean stagnation or being afraid to go after things. It means going after things, but reducing all the risks to a minimum by hard work.
7 Do not overwork your cover to the detriment of your jobs; we must never get so engrossed in the latter as to forget the former.
8 Never leave things lying about unattended or lay them down where you are liable to forget them. Learn to write lightly; the “blank” page underneath has often been read. Be wary of your piece of blotting paper. If you have to destroy a document, do so thoroughly. Carry as little written matter as possible, and for the shortest possible time. Never carry names or addresses en clair. If you cannot carry them for the time being in your head, put them in a species of personal code, which only you understand. Small papers and envelopes or cards and photographs, ought to be clipped on to the latter, otherwise they are liable to get lost. But when you have conducted an interview or made arrangements for a meeting, write it all down and put it safely away for reference. Your memory can play tricks.
9. The greatest vice in the game is that of carelessness. Mistakes made generally cannot be rectified.
10. The next greatest vice is that of vanity. Its offshoots are multiple and malignant.
11. Besides, the man with a swelled head never learns. And there is always a great deal to be learned.
12. Booze is naturally dangerous. So also is an undisciplined attraction for the other sex. The first loosens the tongue. The second does likewise. It also distorts vision and promotes indolence. They both provide grand weapons to an enemy.
13. It has been proved time and again, in particular, that sex and business do not mix.
14. In this job, there are no hours. That is to say, one never leaves it down. It is lived. One never drops one's guard. All locations are good for laying a false trail (social occasions, for instance, a casual hint here, a phrase there). All locations are good for picking something up, or collecting...for making a useful acquaintance.
15. In a more normal sense of the term "no hours," it is certainly not a business where people put their own private arrangements before their work.
16. That is not to say that one does not take recreation and holidays. Without them it is not possible to do a decent job. If there is a real goodwill and enthusiasm for the work, the two (except in abnormal circumstances) will always be combined without the work having to suffer.
17. The greatest material curse to the profession, despite all its advantages, is undoubtedly the telephone. It is a constant source of temptation to slackness. And even if you do not use it carelessly yourself, the other fellow, very often will, so in any case, warn him. Always act on the principle that every conversation is listened to, that a call may always give the enemy a line. Naturally, always unplug during confidential conversations. Even better is it to have no phone in your room, or else have it in a box or cupboard.
18. Sometimes, for quite exceptional reasons, it may be permissible to use open post as a channel of communications. Without these quite exceptional reasons, allowing of no alternative, it is to be completely avoided.
19. When the post is used, it will be advisable to get through post boxes; that is to say, people who will receive mail for you and pass it on. This ought to be their only function. They should not be part of the show. They will have to be chosen for the personal friendship which they have with you or with one of your agents. The explanation you give them will depend on circumstances; the letters, of course, must be apparently innocent incontinence. A phrase, signature or embodied code will give the message. The letter ought to be concocted in such fashion as to fit in with the recipient's social background. The writer ought therefore to be given details of the post boxes assigned to them. An insipid letter is in itself suspicious. If however, a signature or phrase is sufficient to convey the message, then a card with greetings will do.
20. Make a day’s journey, rather than take a risk, either by phone or post. If you do not have a prearranged message to give by phone, never dial your number before having thought about your conversation. Do not improvise even the dummy part of it. But do not be too elaborate. The great rule here, as in all else connected with the job, is to be natural.
21. If you have phoned a line or a prospective line of yours from a public box and have to look up the number, do not leave the book lying open on that page.
22. When you choose a safe house to use for meetings or as a depot, let it be safe. If you can, avoid one that is overlooked by other houses. If it is, the main entrance should be that used for other houses as well. Make sure there are no suspicious servants. Especially, of course, be sure of the occupants. Again, these should be chosen for reasons of personal friendship with some member of the organization and should be discreet. The story told to them will once again depend on circumstances. They should have no other place in the show, or if this is unavoidable, then calls at the house should be made as far as possible after dark.
23. Always be yourself. Always be natural inside the setting you have cast for yourself. This is especially important when meeting people for the first time or when traveling on a job or when in restaurants or public places in the course of one. In trains or restaurants people have ample time to study those nearest them. The calm quiet person attracts little attention. Never strain after an effect. You would not do so in ordinary life. Look upon your job as perfectly normal and natural.
24. When involved in business, look at other people as little as possible, and don't dawdle. You will then have a good chance of passing unnoticed. Looks draw looks.
25. Do not dress in a fashion calculated to strike the eye or to single you out easily.
26. Do not stand around. And as well as being punctual yourself, see that those with whom you are dealing are punctual. Especially if the meeting is in a public place; a man waiting around will draw attention. But even if it is not in a public place, try to arrive and make others arrive on the dot. An arrival before the time causes as much inconvenience as one after time.
27. If you have a rendezvous, first make sure you are not followed. Tell the other person to do likewise. But do not act in any exaggerated fashion. Do not take a taxi to a house address connected with your work. If it cannot be avoided, make sure you are not under observation when you get into it. Or give another address, such as that of a café or restaurant nearby.
28. Try to avoid journeys to places where you will be noticeable. If you have to make such journeys, repeat them as little as possible, and take all means to make yourself fit in quietly with the background.
29. Make as many of your difficult appointments as you can after dark. Turn the blackout to good use. If you cannot make it after dark, make it very early morning when people are only half awake and not on the lookout for strange goings-on.
30. Avoid restaurants, cafes and bars for meetings and conversations. Above all never make an initial contact in one of them. Let it be outside. Use abundance of detail and description of persons to be met, and have one or two good distinguishing marks. have a password that can be given to the wrong person without unduly exciting infestation.
31. If interviews cannot be conducted in a safe house, then take a walk together in the country. Cemeteries, museums and churches are useful places to bear in mind.
32. Use your own judgment as to whether or not you ought to talk to chance travel or table companions. It may be useful. It may be the opposite. It may be of no consequence whatsoever. Think, however, before you enter upon a real conversation, whether this particular enlargement of the number of those who will recognize and spot you in the future is liable or not to be a disadvantage. Always carry reading matter. Not only will it save you from being bored, it is protective armor if you want to avoid a conversation or to break off an embarrassing one.
33. Always be polite to people, but not exaggeratedly so. With the following class of persons who come to know you — hotel and restaurant staffs, taxi drivers, train personnel etc., be pleasant. Someday, they may prove useful to you. Be generous in your tips to them, but again, not exaggeratedly so. Give just a little more than the other fellow does - unless the cover under which you are working does not permit this. Give only normal tips. however, to waiters and taxi drivers, etc., when you are on the job. Don't give them any stimulus, even of gratification, to make you stick in their minds. Be as brief and casual as possible.
34. Easiness and confidence do not come readily to all of us. They must be assiduously cultivated. Not only because they help us personally, but they also help to produce similar reactions in those we are handling.
35. Never deal out the intense, the dramatic stuff, to a person before you have quietly obtained his confidence in your levelheadedness.
36. If you're angling for a man, lead him around to where you want him; put the obvious idea in his head, and make the suggestion of possibilities come to him. Express, if necessary - but with great tact — a wistful disbelief in the possibilities at which you are aiming. "How fine it would be if only someone could... but of course, etc. etc." And always leave a line of retreat open to yourself.
37. Never take a person for granted. Very seldom judge a person to be above suspicion. Remember that we live by deceiving others. Others live by deceiving us. Unless others take persons for granted or believe in them, we would never get our results. The others have people as clever as we; if they can be taken in, so can we. Therefore, be suspicious.
38. Above all, don't deceive yourself. Don't decide that the other person is fit or is all right, because you yourself would like it to be that way. You are dealing in people's lives.
39. When you have made a contact, till you are absolutely sure of your man — and perhaps even then — be a small but eager intermediary. Have a "They" in the background for whom you act and to whom you are responsible. If “They” are harsh, if “They” decide to break it off, it is never any fault of yours, and indeed you can pretend to have a personal grievance about it. “They” are always great gluttons for results and very stingy with cash until “They" get them. When the results come along, “They” always send messages of congratulation and encouragement.
40. Try to find agents who do not work for money alone, but for conviction. Remember, however, that not by conviction alone, does the man live. If they need financial help, give it to them. And avoid the “woolly" type of idealist, the fellow who lives in the clouds.
41. Become a real friend of your agents. Remember that he has a human side so bind him to you by taking an interest in his personal affairs and in his Family. But never let the friendship be stronger than your sense of duty to the work. That must always be impervious to any sentimental considerations. Otherwise, your vision will be distorted, your judgment affected, and you may be reluctant, even, to place your men in a position of danger. You may also, by indulgence toward him, let him endanger others.
42. Gain the confidence of your agents, but be wary of giving them more of yours than is necessary. He may fall by the way side; he may quarrel with you; it may be advisable for a number of reasons to drop him. In that case, obviously, the less information he possesses, the better. Equally obviously, if an agent runs the risk of falling into the hands of the enemy, it is unfair both to him and the show to put him in possession of more knowledge than he needs.
43. If your agent can be laid off work periodically, this is a very good thing. And during his rest periods, let him show himself in another field and in other capacities.
44. Teach them at least the elements of technique. Do not merely leave it to his own good judgment, and then hope for the best. Insist, for a long time at least, on his not showing too much initiative, but make him carry out strictly the instructions which you give him. His initiative will he tested when unexpected circumstances arise. Tell him off soundly when he errs; praise him when he does well.
45. Do not be afraid to be harsh, or even harsh with others, if it is your duty to be so. You are expected to be likewise with yourself. When necessity arises neither your own feelings not those of others matter. Only the job — the lives and safety of those entrusted to you — is what counts.
46. Remember that you have no right to expect of others what you are not prepared to do yourself. But on the other hand, do not rashly expose yourself in any unnecessary displays of personal courage that may endanger the whole shooting match. It often takes more moral courage to ask another fellow to do a dangerous task than to do it yourself. But if this is the proper course to follow, then you must follow it.
47. If you have an agent who is really very important to you, who is almost essential to your organization, try not to let them know this. Infer, without belittling him, that there are other lines and other groups of a bigger nature inside the shadow, and that — while he and his particular group are doing fine work — they are but part of a mosaic.
48. Never let your agent get the bit between his teeth and run away with you. If you cannot manage it easily yourself, there are always the terrible “They.”
49. But if your agent knows the ground on which he is working better than you, always be ready to listen to his advice and to consult him. The man on the spot is the man who can judge.
50. In the same way, if you get directives from HQ, which to you seem ill-advised, do not be afraid to oppose these directives. You are there for pointing things out. This is particularly so if there is grave danger to security without a real corresponding advantage for which the risk may be taken. For that, fight anybody with everything you’ve got.
51. If you have several groups, keep them separate unless the moment comes for concerted action. Keep your lines separate; and within the bounds of reason and security, try to multiply them. Each separation and each multiplication minimizes the danger of total loss. Multiplication of lines also gives the possibility of resting each line, which is often a very desirable thing.
52. Never set a thing really going, whether it be big or small, before you see it in its details. Do not count on luck. Or only on bad luck.
53. When using couriers, who are in themselves trustworthy — (here again, the important element of personal friendship ought to be made to play its part) — but whom it is better to keep in the dark as to the real nature of what they are carrying, commercial smuggling will often provide an excellent cover. Apart from being a valid reason for secrecy, it gives people a kick and also provides one with a reason for offering payment. Furthermore, it involves a courier in something in which it is in his own personal advantage to conceal.
54. To build this cover, should there be no bulk of material to pass, but only a document or a letter, it will be well always to enclose this properly sealed in a field dummy parcel with an unsealed outer wrapping
55. The ingredients for any new setup are: serious consideration of the field and of the elements at your disposal; the finding of one key man or more; safe surroundings for encounter; safe houses to meet in; post boxes; couriers; the finding of natural covers and pretext for journeys, etc.; the division of labor; separation into cells; the principal danger in constructing personal friendships between the elements (this is enormously important); avoidance of repetition.
56. The thing to aim at, unless it is a question of a special job, is not quick results, which may blow up the show, but the initiation of a series of results, which will keep on growing and which, because the show has the proper protective mechanism to keep it under cover, will lead to discovery.
57. Serious groundwork is much more important than rapid action. The organization does not merely consist of the people actively working but the potential agents whom you have placed where they may be needed, and upon whom you may call, if need arises.
58. As with an organization, so with a particular individual. His first job in a new field is to forget about evetything excepting his groundwork; that is, the effecting of his cover. Once people label him, the job is half done. People take things so much for granted and only with difficulty change their sizing-up of a man once they have made it. They have to be jolted out of it. It is up to you to see that they are not. If they do suspect, do not take it that all is lost and accept the position. Go back to your cover and build it up again. You will at first puzzle them and finally persuade them.
59. The cover you choose will depend upon the type of work that you have to do. So also will the social life in which you indulge. It may be necessary to lead a full social existence; it may be advisable to stay in the background. You must school yourself not to do any wishful thinking in the sense of persuading yourself that what you want to do is what you ought to do.
60. Your cover and social behavior, naturally, ought to be chosen to fit in with your background and character. Neither should be too much of a strain. Use them well. Imprint them, gradually but steadfastly on people’s minds. When your name crops up in conversation they must have something to say about you, something concrete outside of your real work.
61. The place you live in is often a thorny problem. Hotels are seldom satisfactory. A flat of your own where you have everything under control is desirable; if you can share it with a discreet friend who is not in the business, so much the better. You can relax into a normal life when you get home, and he will also give you an opportunity of cover. Obviously the greatest care is to be taken in the choice of servants. But it is preferable to have a reliable servant than to have none at all. People cannot get in to search or fix telephones, etc. in your absence. And if you want to not be at home for awkward callers (either personal or telephonic), servants make that possible.
62. If a man is married, the presence of his wife may be an advantage or disadvantage. That will depend on the nature of the job — as well as on the nature of the husband and wife.
63. Should a husband tell his wife what he is doing? It is taken for granted that people in this line are possessed of discretion and judgment. If a man thinks his wife is to be trusted, then he may certainly tell her what he is doing — without necessarily telling her the confidential details of particular jobs. It would be fair to neither husband nor wife to keep her in the dark unless there were serious reasons demanding this. A wife would naturally have to be coached in behavior in the same way as an agent.
64. Away from the job, among your other contacts, never know too much. Often you will have to bite down on your vanity, which would like to show what you know. This is especially hard when you hear a wrong assertion being made or a misstatement of events.
65. Not knowing too much does not mean not knowing anything. Unless there is a special reason for it, it is not good either to appear a nitwit or a person lacking in discretion. This does not invite the placing of confidence in you.
66. Show your intelligence, but be quiet on anything along the line you are working. Make others do the speaking. A good thing sometimes is to be personally interested as “a good patriot and anxious to pass along anything useful to official channels in the hope that it may eventually get to the right quarter.”
67. When you think a man is possessed of useful knowledge or may in other ways be of value to you, remember that praise is acceptable to the vast majority of men. When honest praise is difficult, a spot of flattery will do equally well.
68. Within the limits of your principles, be all things to all men. But don’t betray your principles. The strongest force in your show is you. Your sense of right, your sense of respect for yourself and others. And it is your job to bend circumstances to your will, not to let circumstances bend or twist you.
69. In your work, always be in harmony with your own conscience. Put yourself periodically in the dock for cross examination. You can never do more than your best; only your best is good enough. And remember that only the job counts — not you personally, excepting satisfaction of a job well done.
70. It is one of the finest jobs going. no matter how small the part you play may appear to be. Countless people would give anything to be in it. Remember that and appreciate the privilege. No matter what others may do, play your part well.
71. Never get into a rut. Or rest on your oars. There are always new lines around the corner, always changes and variations to be introduced. Unchanging habits of work lead to carelessness and detection.
72. If anything, overestimate the opposition. Certainly never underestimate it. But do not let that lead to nervousness or lack of confidence. Don't get rattled, and know that with hard work, calmness, and by never irrevocably compromising yourself, you can always, always best them.
73. Lastly, and above all — REMEMBER SECURITY.
PS. The above points are not intended for any cursory, even interested, glance. They will bear — each of them — serious attention, and at least occasional re-perusal. It is probable, furthermore, that dotted here and there among them will be found claims that have particular present application for each person who reads them. These, naturally, are meant to be acted upon straightaway.

FREE US MILITARY MANUALS

If you want free US military manuals then visit the Christian Preppers page of my website for several links to hundreds of them.

Medical Issues - First aid and . . .

          In the previous article I covered this topic at a very basic level. Here I will go a bit deeper. Again, what you should have is dependent on your skill, budget, and planned or anticipated environment. What is commonly called “first aid” today is often the only “aid” - i.e. band aids, ointments, etc. It is often less a response to a given event as it is a preventive measure against a worse event - i.e. infection from a “minor” cut. If the first aid does not work then there is, for now, the fallback of turning the issue over to better trained and equipped personnel. That which is “minor” now can be life threatening in an EOTW scenario or even in many DOS (disruption of services) events.

Not all my medical gear is in my “first aid” kit. For example, in the first article I left out surgical gear. I actually do carry a surgical stapler in my first aid kit; but, I do this because I go out every month into the desert or mountains alone. A stapler is the quickest method for self-repair of a serious laceration. It is quick, easy, can be done one handed, requires no “special” skill, and is lightweight, fairly inexpensive, and compact.

I also carry a premade splint. Again, with frequent solo outings it is worth it to me to not have to go looking for splint material with a broken bone.

I have some gear that is kept “on hand” that is more specialized. I have a stethoscope, BP monitor, O2 monitor, etc. only because of the heart issues of someone in my bug out plan. I do not have any aids for a diabetic because I do not know any. Know yourself, know your group, and plan accordingly.

The heighten risk of infections, in an EOTW scenario, is the greatest danger. More folks have died throughout history from bugs than bombs and bullets - even in most wars. Hence, I have other medical gear “on hand” that is not in my emergency first aid kit. Bleach is great but actually has a short shelf life (See Note¹) Alcohol is better. I have a UV-C wand designed for sterilization of both equipment and wounds; and, it is powered by AA batteries - which I stock up on (solar rechargeable). Prevention is paramount when you are your own doctor.

Skin integrity is paramount so I stock up on alcohol wipes, providone, burn cream, triple antibiotics, etc. Just as important are sting ease, hydrocortisone, etc. (even bug wipes) - itching can be almost unbearable which leads to scratching which leads to degradation of skin integrity.

I stock up on certain OTC medications - i.e. anti-diarrhea and bronchial meds. When TSHTF many “contained” diseases will again rear their ugly heads. The most common will be related to intestinal and respiratory issues - look around the world where the level of medical care is scant. Most folks do not realize just how quickly diarrhea (no matter the cause) can incapacitate and kill. I stock several different methods for treating a variety of intestinal issues: Pepto-Bismol (liquid and chewable), loperamide hydrochloride, antacids, etc. - even simple baking soda.

I have “prescription” antibiotics that are kept refrigerated. I still intend to get a better variety as my budget allows - not all “antibiotics” are created equal.

          For an EOTW or DOS scenario you need to picture a three tiered line of defense against germs. First is to try to kill them before they reach you - i.e. the UV-C wand. Second is to kill the little buggers that get on you - topical wipes, creams, ointments, etc. Third is to kill’em when they get in you - pills, injections, IV’s, etc.

          As in any war a strong defense is needed; but, it is even better when you can take the fight to them and never have to fight on your own turf. Good hygiene and sanitation will go a long way to ensuring you win the war on germs. Do not forget space (overcrowding kills - sunshine saves) and ventilation (bad air means bad health - think respiratory issues).

          Whether you bug in or bug out make sure you can beat the bugs around you. Don’t just survive - thrive.

Note¹ - Bleach is also a poor choice for dealing with molds because it is usually diluted with water - which is what mold needs to grow. Ask anyone who does mold eradication at the professional level.

HEAD GEAR

It may seem odd to many to see a prepper post on head gear. Well, if you look back at history you will find that a piece of head gear was worn by just about every outdoorsman, every warrior, every adventurer, etc. In the “modern, civilized world” headgear is often unneeded in everyday life. Such is not the case when you venture outside - especially in inclement weather.

When the modern conveniences - such as central heat and air conditioning - go by the wayside you will soon find that having quality headgear - multi-purpose and several if possible - is a must for surthrival. A variety of special purpose head gear is fine if you bug in; but, if you bug out you will need to limit your choices according to usage, weight and space. As with all prepper gear the more uses an item can serve the better it is. We will address a few options here.

Bandanas: although a versatile device these are not much use as a stand-alone piece of headgear; however, they are a great (if not essential) addition to about every other piece of head gear there is. They have too many uses to be forgotten - head cover, scarf, dust mask, sling(s), bandage, tourniquet, sediment filter, garrote, blackjack, etc.

Baseball caps: the common baseball style cap worn by many is a bare minimum. It offers very little protection from heat, cold, or rain; and, offers little in the multi-use department - i.e. most can’t be used to carry or filter water very well. There are some exceptions of course. The “hunter style” baseball caps are different. Many come with ear flaps too; and, some higher dollar caps have polar fleece liners, Gore-Tex, etc. I even have two baseball style hunting caps that have built in LED lights (which were on sale and cheaper to buy than an LED headlamp).

Trooper’s Caps: these, like many hunter style baseball caps, have earflaps and offer better cold weather protection. Quality examples even do well for limited wet weather protection. On the downside most are too hot for warm weather. Most do not store well due to excessive bulk.

Boonie rat/safari style hats: these hats are good for warm or wet weather but most offer little if any help for cold weather. Depending on the material they are good for carrying or filtering water. They are also easy to store. Quality hats have a strong tie down strap that makes them useful for carrying miscellaneous items - i.e. when collecting wild edibles. My own “desert rat” hat has a section of material that can be used to cover the back of the neck.

Knit caps: these are good for cold weather. Quality wool caps even work when wet but none offer true wet weather protection. They do make for a makeshift pillow though which can make a big difference for quality sleep. They also store very well.

Balaclavas: these are great in cold weather and have multiple uses - depending on material and design. They store very well. Mine can be worn as a neck warmer, knit cap, facemask, used as a sack, etc.

Helmets: If you are bugging in or in an urban environment it might be advantageous. My experience is that helmets are seldom worth the weight in field operations.

Head gear is a very personal choice. I have many for everyday use. I spend a lot of time backpacking out in the boonies - desert and mountains - and always carry my balaclava. I wear a bandana either around my neck as a scarf or as a hatband on my desert rat hat. My desert rat hat has sides that can be snapped or tied in the up position. I keep the sides up and stuff a small pepper spray on one side and an emergency whistle w/ a mini survival kit on the other. It gets a lot of use as a potholder too! With these few pieces of head gear I have all weather conditions covered and a lot of uses for them all - combined they even make a great pillow. Each is also a different color scheme for a variety of camouflage situations.

Choose what you will but note that many headgear items are like a new pair of boots and you should break them in. Some folks not used to wearing head gear even get headaches when first wearing head gear for any length of time. Don’t delay - don’t just survive - surthrive!

Ruck & LBE

I mentioned in an earlier article on Bugout gear that there will be times when you will need to carry some vital gear (i.e. first aid kit) but a ruck is too cumbersome, too heavy or just plain unneeded. This is why having a good LBE (Load bearing Equipment) is essential. Whether you are away from base camp to hunt, scout, patrol, or etc. you still need to keep a certain amount of gear with you without taking the whole kitchen sink. An LBE to a prepper in action is what a tool box is to a tradesman, or a briefcase is to a businessman - it goes where he goes when he is at work.

I don’t dedicate my LBE to being a B.O.B. only. I only have one setup and I use it 3 - 4 times a month for hiking and camping. That said, my LBE is always loaded and ready to go. My LBE consists of a base of a military web belt. Attached are a canteen holder, two ammo pouches, two utility pouches, and a battle dressing pouch. This belt is attached to and suspended from a vest with four diagonal chest pouches and two front vertical “hip” pouches. The vest also has multiple “connection points” from which you can attach other gear. Suspended from the belt are two leg units. The left leg unit consists of three vertical large “magazine” slots. The right leg unit has two removable, adjustable, “open” pouches front and rear; and, a center pouch with multiple zippered, expanding compartments.

The web belt: the canteen holder holds a canteen cup, a 1 quart canteen, and a small outer pocket holds a vial of water purification tablets. My ammo pouches are the old style that can each hold three M16 magazines inside and have outer open pockets for two grenades. I keep my battle dressing pouch attached to one of the grenade pockets. One ammo pouch usually has rations (protein bars, cliff bars, slimjims, Gatorade packets, etc.); but, the items in the web belt pouches varies with my activities and time of year - i.e. during snake season I keep my Sawyer extractor handy in the ammo pouch on my left front hip.

The vest: I attach a first aid kit to my Ruck with carabineers and when using only the LBE I transfer it to the “connection points” on the back of the vest. On the front “connection points” are a knife on one side and a light on the other. The items I carry will vary but I always put the electronics (phone, radio, stun gun, etc) in the upper pockets to keep them dry for wading creeks. I also always carry rations in at least one pouch.

The right leg unit: This unit never changes. I put binoculars in the rear open pouch. I put a large pepper spray in the front open pouch. In the center pouch: it has an inner zippered pouch, an outer zipper pouch, and a zippered flap pouch. In the inner pouch I have a wire saw, chem light, Chapstick, finger LED light, and my survival kit*, etc. In the outer pouch I have a mini stove with fuel tabs, a LED flashlight, a water filter with a straw, a compass, etc. In the flap pouch I have a WAPI, auto relight candles, and a permanent match.

The left leg unit: I carry two wide mouth bottles that my water filter will fit into and in the third is usually a large bag of trail mix. Whether hiking or after the SHTF, this unit alone would sustain you for a few days. I often freeze juice or water in the bottles and have diced pears or raisins mixed in. When you’re out in the boonies in AZ this little bit of cool makes a nice treat on your first day out.

As you can see, my LBE is, in essence, a mini B.O.B. all by itself. You may wonder though about all the “hiking and camping” related info I throw into mix. I love the outdoors; and, remember - practice, practice, practice. Don’t just survive - thrive.

* Those who read my article on an Emergency First Aid Kit know that it doubles as a survival kit too. I still carry a separate waterproof survival kit that holds: a space blanket, a knife, a bic lighter, auto relight candles, chem light, pain meds, adrenaline pills, finger LED light, etc.

BUGOUT FOODS

 

BUGOUT FOODS - A Baker’s Dozen for Surthrival

1.   Powdered Milk - vitamins, protein, stand alone or mix in other foods.

2.   Powdered Whole Eggs - freeze dried is better than dehydrated to my taste. Protein and fat. A variety of ways to use- eggs, French toast, bannock, cakes, soup, etc.

3.   Peanut Butter - great for fat and protein - calories! Adds flavor to oatmeal to change things up. If weight is a major concern there is dehydrated available; but, the oil has been removed and you lose the fat and a lot of calories. Price is okay if you buy wisely.

4.   Quick Oatmeal - good carbs and bulk; a lot of ways to use - boil, grind for flour, etc.

5.   Quinoa - you get a complete protein from a grain - close to milk, a “super food” - also good carbs and bulk too. Price is fair if bought in bulk.

6.   Refried Beans (freeze dried or dehydrated) - fat, protein, carbs, and bulk! Much lighter than regular beans and quicker to cook. Can be eaten without cooking it - though I do recommend you at least rehydrate first.

7.   Flour - bread is the staff of life, multiple uses - biscuits, dumplings, flapjacks, cakes, etc.

8.   Instant Rice - carbs and bulk, many ways to use

9.   Breakfast Cereals - variety of taste and textures, no cooking, etc.

10.         Sunflower Seed Kernels - great source of fat and calories, many uses too.

11.         SPAM - versatile, great for fat and protein - calories!

12.         Honey - it’s great for energy, flavoring other foods, etc.

13.         Misc Pouch - Mega Vitamin/Mineral supplement, condiments, seeds

This is a down and dirty basic list. Obviously not every food I have for bugging out is on this list. It is my top priority list though and is what is in my B.O.B. I am working on another article called BUG IN FOODS. All the items in this list have a very long shelf life, are suitable for a B.O.B., are available in bulk, and are fairly inexpensive (much less than most dehydrated or freeze dried “survival” or “back packing” food). They will keep you healthy and alive while you look for other resources and they go well with most of what nature can provide.

Never forget that the food source you may be counting on could get compromised - if you are counting on a flock of chickens and the SHTF because of a bird flu pandemic, or you’re counting on your garden and every crop for a hundred miles gets nailed by locusts, or your whole AO has radiation falling on it, etc.

These “base” items also provide an adequate change of flavor profiles to mix and match to hold off “burnout” - which is important to surthrival. Examples are: oatmeal plain, oatmeal with honey, with milk, with milk and honey, with nuts (sunflower seeds), with peanut butter, oatmeal flour for bread, flapjacks, etc. Quinoa can be done as all the above.

          A lot of folks go for regular beans and rice. They are cheap. But they have drawbacks compared to what I have on the list. They do not provide the same nutritional value or weight to calorie ratio. I will address the beans first. Weight wise they are a bust for bugging out afoot - dehydrated refried beans are much lighter and more compact. Regular beans have no fat; refried beans (unless you get vegan) do have the fat you need. In addition, even if you bug in, regular beans take a lot of fuel to cook - even with extra time for soaking quite a bit. Dehydrated refried beans can be eaten as is, rehydrated and eaten, or eaten as soon as they boil. As for the rice (except maybe instant for the sake of time and fuel) it cannot compete with quinoa. Nutritionally, rice is way out of its league when compared to quinoa. Quinoa cooks and eats much like rice but it has all the goods of rice plus it is a complete protein. If you can afford the difference it is well worth the price - if not, then its beans & rice.

          Survival means calories. Surthrival means calories and nutrition. Protein and carbs have 4 calories per gram. Fat has 9 calories per gram. Fat is king for surthrival. You can forage all the veggies you want but you won’t get much fat. Sources of fruits and veggies that have good amounts of fat are things like bananas and coconuts. Most folks don’t have these nearby. The other primary source of fat from fruits and veggies are nuts. Stock them as you can afford them - they also store well. Never pass them up if you find them - even if you are allergic they can be bartered.

          Whole milk and eggs are the king and queen of fat if you can get them. Many folks don’t know about “protein starvation”. Think death by rabbit. Vitamins are not all the same - they are soluble in differing mediums. Some require water for the body to absorb them - others require fat. People that plan on surviving by eating only small game (such as mice and rabbits) and veggies will actually begin to starve to death due to the lack of fat. It is the same for living off a garden. That is why chickens are so popular worldwide as a poor man’s livestock - eggs = fat. In many parts of the world a poor man “moves up” when he can get pigs - pork = fat. Spam and peanut butter are great for fat.

Fat, in Nature, is usually harder to come by. Many insects (larvae) are good but most folks balk at them. Most fish and waterfowl are good, as are most mid-sized critters - opossum, armadillo, raccoons, etc., and large critters - i.e. bears. A wild animal that you have heard of as having greasy meat is a fair source of fat. Finally, cheese is a prince of a source. For prepping, canned cheese is expensive. Velveeta is inexpensive and stores without refrigeration. My personal favorites though are the hard cheeses that last even longer - i.e. parmesan, Romano, etc. Most “cheese powders” have had most if not all of the fat taken out first (as have many freeze dried milk powders and most dehydrated milk powders).

          Milk and eggs are the king and queen of protein too. Meat may be hard to come by; but, when it comes to non-game protein you don’t need to be a licensed nutritionist to what works - just look at native cultures. Most grains have proteins but not the “complete” protein chain we need. Corn has some, beans have some that are different; when corn and beans are combined you get “complete” protein. It is the same when you combine almost any bean (i.e. soy) with almost any grain (i.e. rice). Quinoa is complete. Here again, cheese is a prince. Again, Spam and peanut are great for fat and protein. Tuna is cheap, long lasting, and great for protein but lousy for fat and calories. If Spam is out for you then consider salmon - for a meat with fat and protein.

          There are other inexpensive long term storage staples that are good for bugging out or in - Malt-o-Meal, Cream of Wheat, etc. I do stock them since I like them; but, they don’t add a lot of flavor profile changes. That is why I favor other “breakfast cereals”. These don’t require cooking, they add many taste profile changes, and they add a textural change that is nice. Also, many make a good cooked meal too. The sugary ones are good for energy boosts and cereals like Total raisin bran give you vitamins, fiber, and a fruit. They can also be eaten dry as a snack. In a surthrival situation all these foods form a complete protein with just a little milk.

          One of the guideline criteria for this list is weight. Everything, even the meats (spam, tuna, and salmon), are available in pouches. I load one or two items in cans, just for the sake of having the cans also, then finish with pouches. Pouches save weight and are easier to pack - they can be stuffed in to fill dead space. That is why I have misc pouches. They are a good way to fill dead spaces. My misc pouches have vitamins for obvious reasons. I have condiment packages: olive oil (fat), tartar sauce (fat), soy sauce (salt), jellies (energy), and hot sauce (can cover up a lot of nasty flavors). Lastly I have seeds that can be spouted or planted - i.e. wheat, beans, broccoli, etc.

          No matter what you pick, make sure it is something you actually like to eat. Yes, people will eat most anything if starving; but, you don’t want to weaken yourself by not eating because you dread the same old thing again. Also, food is more than fuel - it has a big impact on morale. Don’t just survive - thrive.